September 1, 2010

Harvest 2010 is here

Today at 9:36 a.m. my colleague Diego, using a forklift, tipped a bin loaded with Sauvignon Blanc grapes into one of the presses at Starmont and harvest had commenced.

It’s been a bit of a slow burning fire this year. A cooler than normal summer has pushed us a few weeks behind a “normal” harvest schedule. A lack of a good long heat spell has also meant there doesn’t seem like there will be an onrush of early ripening fruit. Instead, it seems like a measured march into what could be very busy October and November. (There’s even some talk that we won’t get Thanksgiving off.)

I’ll be working in the lab and the cellar this harvest and I’m looking forward to not only seeing the production side again, but to see more of the analytical processes involved with harvest.

The start of harvest is always a fun, although bit tense time. While we’re all looking forward to the overtime and extra money the grueling hours and stress are not fun. Simple traditions, however, help keep you excited. This morning, us cellar guys gathered around with the winemakers, vineyard managers, lab staff and folks from the administrative office to toast another vintage with a glass of sparkling wine. It’s a nice tradition, practiced at many wineries, although some break out champagne to toast the last load of grapes for that harvest.

This harvest could well go deep into late November and perhaps even December depending on weather.

In the weeks leading up to today, many of my coworkers in the cellar would joke around with each other asking if “you’re ready for harvest?”

As our cellarmaster reminded us this morning: “It doesn’t matter if you’re ready or not. Harvest is here.”

August 13, 2010

Out in the cuts

Here in Carneros I enjoy living close to the country. As I write this, I look out of my bedroom window and watch a covey of young quail peck their way through a field looking for food.

It sometimes seems I can’t walk anywhere without flushing a jack rabbit from the bushes. I’ve run into several snakes, even catching one, and one of my favorite parts of sitting out on the patio as night falls is watching the owls come swooping out of their roosts while making their haunting and weird calls.

One night last week I was up late. I had had a cup of coffee late in the day and the result was I couldn’t sleep. I was up at around 3 a.m. watching a Sherlock Holmes show on PBS, and kinda dozing off when I was snapped awake by a blood-chilling series of howls and shrieks. A pack of coyotes was running past our house letting lose a cacophony of snarls, yelps and vicious sounding growls. I jumped out of my chair and grabbed a spotlight, but when I flashed the field with the light all the noise stopped.

All I could see, at the furthest limit of the light, was just a row of coyote eyes staring back at me and shining in the night. I thought about grabbing my .22 and taking a few potshots at them, but shooting into the night at a vague target is never really smart. Instead I just watched them as one-by-one the coyotes turned away from the light and walked off into the vineyards.

August 8, 2010

Diary of a cellar rat: Another harvest here already

A cluster of Pinot Noir undergoing verasion.

It seems so cliché to express surprise at the steady march of time and seasons. Everyone always seems to agree when one exclaims, “July is already over? How did that happen?” I guess that’s human nature.

How does it happen? But it does. The vines that stood barren, just naked stalks and dead tendrils hanging on wires beneath cold, flat February skies have once again turned verdant and full of life. Clusters of grapes that were just small green pebbles a month ago are already changing color or going through the process of verasion.

I remember making copies at the winery office in March and looking at a calendar and thinking to myself of all the time I had until harvest came around once more. Here we are in August, and all that time that has passed seems like a blur.

I am becoming more familiar with my new career and new industry. It feels good to be getting ready for harvest. This is the big time of our profession in the wine industry. It is something that have realized that if I continue in this industry my life will always be in one of three stages: before harvest, during harvest and after harvest.

This year appears to be about a month behind normal. Because of an unseasonably cool summer that has felt as if it’s been early June since, well, early June, the grapes are behind in their ripening. I guess it means I likely will get a full Labor Day weekend, but may not get a Thanksgiving holiday.

I’m looking forward to this year’s harvest. I do love the excitement and the rush. I also am looking forward to working harvest in my new position at the winery and learning much more about winemaking.

Still though, there is always plenty of work in the cellar. Last week I was filling barrels with a few other colleagues when swarms of small midge like insects fell upon the winery. The bugs crawled through out hair, down our shirts and got into our equipment as well as the wine. I’ve now filled barrels in 100 degree heat, in pouring rain, light snow and now hordes of insects.

July 26, 2010

Hombrew disappointment — It’s all flat!

Two weeks of waiting, followed by a day of chilling in the fridge and then the moment of truth.

Opening the first bottle of homebrew.

I’ll admit, this shouldn’t be such a moment fraught with anxiety. If you’re a competent homebrewer you should have consistent success, you methods should be tested and true. Brewing should be a road to success, not a trip marked by pitfalls and wishful thinking.

But alas, for the humber amateur like myself I can never say I don’t have some trepidation as I put the bottle opener to that first 22 ounce bottle. Will it be skunky? Will it have a weird aroma? Will it be — gasp — flat?

Turns out my last batch was the perhaps the worst, flat as can be. It tastes good, it’s a little darker than I hoped but still doesn’t look bad, it has a nice finish but no bubbles. I’ll blame it on two things, waiting to long to bottle condition, not monitoring my fermentation well enough and also using the tabs of sugar rather than dosing out priming sugar.

I now have two cases of flat beer. Like I said, it tastes OK, but it’s flat. I resolve my next batch will receive my utmost attention and care. It shall receive a correct amount of carbonation sugar and I will ensure I still have healthy yeast to make it to the carbonation finish line.

As with all hobbys, one must not be daunted by failures but rather learn from them to achieve future success.

July 25, 2010

Enjoying a concert at Mondavi

Prior to the concert, the grass area fills up with people with picnics and wine. You can't bring in your own adult beverages but there is a bountiful supply of Mondavi wines for sale.

Last weekend, Christine and I lucked out when some friends said they had extra tickets for a concert at Robert Mondavi winery.

The Mondavi concert series is a long-standing Napa tradition and the concerts are always a sought after ticket to spend a pleasurable summer evening.

Our friends, Ben and Tracy, work at the local Napa radio station that is one of the sponsors of the concert series. So not only did Christine and I have the privilege of free tickets to a show but we also snagged seats at one of the premium tables where the wine flows free and plate after plate of gourmet food is brought to you. Back when Christine was in her early 20s she used to make extra cash by working as a server for the VIP section. She was thrilled by the chance to enjoy a concert from the other side of the table.

Because of all the free wine (which pours freely, did I mention that?) the crew decided to cab it up valley and back. Without anyone having to worry about driving we were all able to sit back and enjoy the show.

We came early to also enjoy free wine and appetizers for VIP guests before the concert. While we sipped chilled Chardonnay and nibbled on snacks we were also able to wander around large oak fermentation tanks and the winery’s modern and impressive barrel room. As a cellar rat, I love to visit other winery’s cellars to look at what type of equipment and layout they have.

I would love, love, to work with barrels that are always laid down one high. At Starmont I often have to scramble up barrels stacked five or six high.

I think because of Mondavi’s long history in the valley and its acquisition by wine behemoth Constellation, people just don’t seem to give the Napa winery the respect it deserves. The wines may not have the hipness or cult following of other Napa wineries but they are all well made and taste great, if not amazing. Although at dinner, we did enjoy a library Cabernet that was very good.

Following the pre-concert reception, we made our way out to banquet style tables adorned with lovely table settings and situated beneath vine covered trellises. Performing that night was Juan De Marco and the Afro-Cuban All Stars. Apparently the lead was a member of the Buena Vista Social Club and the band had the same fast-tempo style jazz. In keeping with the Cuban theme, the night’s menu included several Latin dishes as well as delicious braised Cuban pork. For wines we enjoyed the famous Mondavi Fume Blanc as well as a solid Carneros Pinot Noir and an especially tasty 1999 Reserve Cab.

I’m not going to pretend I’m a huge Jazz fan so I can’t say the music was wonderful or bad, I did enjoy it though. The snazzy beats had most of the folks in the grass area up and dancing and even had Christine dragging me around the table area in an attempt to get me to dance. An attempt though, I’m a terrible dancer.

What I really enjoyed was just lounging in the VIP table area taking in our great view of the stage and performers. It seemed about every 10 minutes a prompt and courteous server was at our elbows asking if we needed more wine or food. And, I’ll be honest, we were grateful and accepting of the generosity.

The concerts at Mondavi have been going on for more than 40 years now, and I can see why. The food is great and there are few better ways to enjoy a spectacular sunset over the vines of Napa Valley than with the accompaniment of skilled musicians. Tickets are pricey (table seats average $200) but the lawn tickets are a bit more reasonable.

More cab Bennie?

A rear view of the performance. I know it's not a great concert shot, but it would have been an impossible to have made my way through the jammed lawn area to reach the front of the stage.

July 20, 2010

Taking a day at the lake

CoCo on the shore of Lake Berryessa.

One of the best parts of my job at the winery is that when it’s not harvest we work a “four-ten” shift or 10 hours a day, four days a week.

This means I get every Friday off, well at least until harvest. It’s pretty nice having a three day weekend every week. You get a whole extra day to take of all of life’s fun little errands like getting a haircut, going to the bank, the drug store etc. Last Friday, I was getting ready at the house with a long list of stuff to take care of, when I just stopped, looked over at my lab CoCo lounging on his bed and thought maybe I’d just hang out with the dog.

It had been a long time since I’d gone somewhere with CoCo and an even longer time since I’d been up to Lake Berryessa in northern Napa County so I grabbed a cooler, put CoCo in the truck and we were off to the lake.

In the truck and ready to roll.

With the windows down and blaring some country music, CoCo and I made our way up to the lake on the windy back roads. The day was pretty hot, so about 20 minutes before we got to the lake, I decided I better stop and pull over and see if I could get CoCo to drink some water. This resulted in a little bit of a panicked moment when the dog was able to slip off his leash and run out onto the highway but after a little scampering on my part I was able to catch him.

The water at the lake was just perfect. Near the shore, the water had a slight greenish tint, but further off the bank it turned a deep turquoise blue. As it was a Friday afternoon, the lake wasn’t that crowded and CoCo and I were able to find a stretch of beach all to ourselves. Many lakes can still be pretty cold this time of year, but Berryessa was in perfect swimming condition. You could just walk right in to the water that was still refreshing but not icy.

Chugging away, while doing the appropriate style paddle.

CoCo loves to swim and play fetch in the water but he’s still freaked out when I’m swimming with him. Whenever I was hanging out in the lake, he started making a high-pitched, whiny yelping that made him sound like he was being abused. (In fact a boat cruised by us relatively close to shore and I think the people were actually checking to make sure there was no canine abuse going on.)

I’ve come to the conclusion that CoCo just needs to spend a week, or long weekend, at the water to really become familiar with it and with people swimming in it.

But despite CoCo’s little behavioral quirks in the water, it still was a wonderful way to enjoy a Friday.

July 19, 2010

Cold-brewed coffee?

Judging from a package in the latest issue of Food & Wine magazine and an article in a recent edition of the SF Chronicle on cold-brewed coffee, it seems that this trend has picked up some attention.

Proponents of this style of brewing claim it yields a coffee without much acidity and roasted or burnt notes in the aroma that they claim is ideal for a cool, refreshing cup of iced coffee. The method calls for steeping grounds in cold water overnight and then filtering out the liquid to create a mild coffee concentrate. The resulting concentrate can be mixed with water, either cold or hot, or milk.

I just don’t know why you would want to drink something that is made in a way that undermines the key steps of brewing coffee. Removing the acidity and aromas from coffee seems to me like diluting a fine bottle of Cabernet with water. In researching home coffee roasting, I thoroughly enjoyed reading Corby Kummer’s primer “The Joy of Coffee.” Kummer sums up cold brewing as a fad not worth the attention of the serious coffee drinker.

“This method becomes fashionable every few years and then retreats into deserved obscurity,” he writes. “The resulting extract, which is stirred into hot water, is mild and characterless because cold water does not extract the lighter aromatics or acids in coffee – or the oils, or much of anything.”

I’d much rather just brew some good coffee and splash it over ice — even if doing so isn’t trendy.

July 12, 2010

Fishing on the Napa River

My friend John standing on our improvised fishing platform on the bank of the Napa River

This past weekend I had big plans for heading up to the Plumas National Forest to hang out at a buddy’s cabin.

I was getting all set to go, I had taken two days off at the winery, I had my shopping list all set for food (lots of meat and cheese) as well as booze (I had been planning to make Mountain Margaritas. What makes them mountainous you ask? The fact you made them at a mountain cabin) and was going to invest in half a box of cigars.

A few hours before I left to start shopping, I get a call from my friend.

“I got bad news,” he says, “I got the flu.”

Well, I didn’t really want to take any chances with the flu, especially after taking a few days off of work so the cabin trip was going to have to wait. Thinking of another option, I realized I could go see my friend in Reno. It would still be a mountain trip but subtract the forests, pristine lake and clean air for high-rise hotels, a bumping pool scene and smoke filled sports book lounges. (I would have bet large on Spain to win the World Cup, and would have won.) But it was a no go as well. That friend was going to be in Arizona for a wedding.

It looked like I was homebound. And it actually turned out to be a relaxing time. I played a great round of golf with my friend Bennie up in Yountville on Friday and decided to go fishing out on the Napa River on Saturday. I had purchased a fishing license for the cabin trip and still wanted to be able to use it.

Where I live in Carneros you can make it out to the river after a short hike through the vineyards. John and I enjoyed the stroll out to the water and after building a small platform on the riverbank soon had our bait in the water and cold cans of Budweiser in our hands. The tide was up, and pretty soon we were both getting strikes on our lines so my confidence was gaining we’d have some luck. I had not landed a fish in about two years and John hadn’t even gone fishing since 2003. On the Napa River your best bet is Striped Bass, a predatory fish that can reach upwards of 50 pounds. I’ve never landed anything that big, but I have seen some photos of monsters caught in the river.

After about two hours of just lounging with our lines in the water, I got a strong strike and was able to set the hook. As I reeled in the line we could see the fish was a good size, about 16 inches, but as I prepared to land the fish John and I forgot a rule of fishing: Land the fish first, then get the camera.

As John was fumbling with my digital camera, the fish slipped off the hook and swam away. A common fishing story, I know, but as we made our way back we both ended up catching something neither of us had expected.

Walking through the vineyards to get back home, I heard a rustling sound and paused to investigate. There between two vineyard rows we discovered a long, green snake. While we were looking at the snake, it slipped away into another vineyard row and John was quick to scamper after it. The snake then moved out of the vineyards and to my surprise John reached down and adroitly plucked up the snake by its tail.

“Oh my God,” John yelled. “I caught a fucking snake!”

I got out the camera for that, took a photo and John gently placed the snake back on the ground. It slithered toward me and I had to give snake wrangling a try so I too grabbed the snake and held it for about half a minute. I have to admit it was pretty cool feeling the strength of the snake’s tail moving in my hand, and cool to watch it coil back it’s head and stick its tounge in the air. We think it was either a rat snake or gopher snake, definitely not a rattler, but we still had to take care.

I never would have thought a fishing trip would end up involving snake catching.

After making it back to the house, I took a quick shower and Christine and I left for a pool side barbecue with some of her friends and coworkers.

It was an Uncorked Life weekend when in the course of one afternoon I went from snake wrangling to sipping chilled Pinot Gris poolside while snacking on bruschetta with panceta and fresh asparagus.

Turned out to be a nice vacation after all.

July 10, 2010

World Cup recipes and your stone-cold lock of a pick

When the U.S. hosted the World Cup back in 1994 I remember I found myself in a San Francisco brewery staring at a list of beer options. I was visiting my older sister who was in college at the time. It was me and a bunch of college guys at the bar, I was underage and not sure what to order in a bar.

I went with the “World Cup of Beer.” It was good, and to this day I’ll always remember my first bar order. Brazil beat the U.S. in that World Cup, on Fourth of July too, it was the “Miracle on Grass” that never happened. The Americans went home early this year as well, but I always love the World Cup no matter how the Yanks perform.

This year it’s Spain versus the Netherlands in the final. I would have bet a large sum of money on Germany or Brazil to win, and I’m glad I didn’t. The following are two recipes for drinks to help you celebrate whichever side you’re rooting for in the match on the pitch not hoping for a score of nil-nil.

Dutch Sudden Death Shooter:

2 oz Van Gogh Double Espresso Vodka
½ oz Herbsaint Liqueur
Shake ingredients over ice and strain into a shot glass.

Sangria

Two bottles, dry red wine.

1/2 bottle gin or vodka.

1 bottle ginger ale or club soda.

Misc. fresh fruit.

Let sit overnight in the fridge and serve cold.

And here’s your lock pick: Spain, 2-0. Spain’s technical style will frustrate the aggressive Dutch into making mistakes.

July 8, 2010

A stiff upper lip and a Pimm’s Cup

I say Bertie, another Pimm's?

Lounging in the plush couches on the veranda, we sipped cocktails and chatted but for the most part just luxuriated.

The clank of Bocce balls resounded every now and then as well as an outburst of laughter from some of the other guests. Waiters and waitresses moved between the tables, to ensure every class was filled.

Another cocktail?

Sure, the day is pleasant and the summer evening is long. One more. Make it a Pimm’s cup. Pimm’s No. 1 is a gin infused with various flavors that are said to be almost a state secret in England. The brown colored liquor is poured over ice and mixed with a variety of fruit and sometimes even cucumber slices.

Oh, this Pimm’s just doesn’t have enough fruit. Excuse me, could we have a few more orange and lime slices?

The Pimm’s is the favored summer beverage of the British and as we enjoyed our early evening drinks on the patio it’s easy to see its summer appeal.

But the name, “Pimm’s,” which you can’t even say without sounding like a Brit and the gingery taste, are just a little too British for this American and especially on the recent Fourth of July weekend.

“Just a shame about that oil in the gulf, I say.”

“Yes, quite distasteful, but leave it to those Americans to try and make a dollar out of it with all those claims on BP, you wouldn’t see that behavior if a North Sea derrick leaked a little oil. Hmmm,  I say more Pimm’s?”