The bar at Marengo on Union in San Francisco.

In the last couple weeks I had the chance to check out two great restaurants.

The first I’ll mention is the labor of love of one of my brother-in-law’s best friends. Marengo on Union, is a casually sophisticated joint dishing up “wine, whiskey and sliders.” The house speciality is a long menu of sliders, or mini burgers, each with its own flavor and fixings. I really enjoyed the pulled pork slider that had a great barbecue sauce with just enough of a zesty kick. The restaurant also serves great deep-fried pickles. These are a little tricky as the pickles can come out as a mushy mess in the middle of a hunk of fried batter, but Marengo’s had a great fried outside and the pickle still had the proper texture on the inside.

I visited Marengo with my sister, brother-in-law, my parents and Christine. The place was jumping on a Saturday night, filled with young, hip city dwellers. It’s a cool scene, although I have to admit a felt a little like a country rube. Marengo also has a great bar with a wonderful whiskey menu featuring a long list of premium malts.

The other restaurant is HopMonk in Sonoma. This place just opened and is the place in Sonoma these days. When Christine and I went there with my parents on a Sunday afternoon at around 2 p.m. the place was filled with locals and tourists. The Sonoma location is an offshoot of the legendary Sebastopol eatery and it’s a winning formula. Great food and an amazing tap list. I had a pint of the Old Speckled Hen pale ale and just loved it. HopMonk probably isn’t a welcome sight for some of the smaller, independent restaurants in Sonoma, but it’s a welcome addition in my opinion. Great food, a good scene and spectacular beers.

A proper turkey sandwich served up by the pros at the Broadway Market in Sonoma. I enjoyed the sando with a little Italian proseco, very tasty.

It’s not that interesting, not that gourmet but there’s just something great about a good turkey sandwich. I’m talking about the ones from some of the best delis in Sonoma or Napa. This is kinda weird, but around here a solid turkey sandwich is expected and respected. I’ve never really thought of them as special until I traveled the world a little bit and couldn’t find that same combo of a fresh smoked or peppered turkey on a hard sourdough role with pepper jack cheese, tomatoes (when in season) onions, peppers, lettuce, pickles (not for everyone but those folks are weirdos, yes Cody, I think your pickle aversion is a little weird) mustard and mayo.

The meat is stacked high, the ingredients on top make a heady mix of flavors and the bread is key. You can’t have a great North  Bay deli sandwich without the sourdough. The crusty bread can be a little messy because the sandwich fillings can kind of slide out when you bite down, but that’s just part of the fun of eating the sandwich.

My current favorite in Sonoma is the venerable Broadway Market, but the Sonoma Market is also solid. In Napa, I’ve got to go Genova’s for the best but Vallerga’s Market is a close second. Brown’s Valley Market, also in Napa, has a solid sando but their butcher is really the only reason to shop there.

Up valley, in St. Helena you’ve got to go to Giugnis. Simply awesome. When I worked at Beringer I had to make a lunch run at Giugnis at least three times a week. They used to have a Cajun Turkey that was just amazing. It was smoked turkey with a rind of peppers and spices that was awesome. Cajun turkey, sour roll, jack cheese, sprouts and yes the juice. You always have to get the Giugnis’ Juice, a savory mix of olive oil, herbs and a little vinegar that’s the final complement to the sandwich.

In Lodi, there’s a great butcher shop called Fiori’s. Good meat and the best sandwiches in town, although they couldn’t do a proper turkey. They didn’t have the right bread or the right toppings. My Lodi friends would vehemently disagree with me, but I remember my first impression was  not bad but it ain’t what they got back home in the North Bay.

I don’t know, am I off base here? Is the turkey sandwich something special in the North Bay or is it just my own personal affinity. I think the deli sandwiches are just better around here, but I’d love to hear about great sandwiches elsewhere.

(Congrats to longtime friends of the blog John and Heather on the wonderful addition to their family, a healthy baby girl.)

The view from the picnic area at Hog Island.

To celebrate a friend’s 30th birthday, the team headed out to the wild and rugged coastline near Point Reyes on Tomales Bay to consume large quantities of oysters.

It is unfortunate for me that most marine life is off limits. I have the appetite and constitution to consume and imbibe almost everything except for animals that swim, crawl or merely exist in the ocean. I have had my fill of trout, bass and catfish but for some reason when I have nibbled on delicacies such as sturgeon, salmon, swordfish and other such fare, my stomach revolts in a most unpleasant manner. I was not looking forward to oysters, but I was eager to get out to the coast.

I have always loved the drive out to the Sonoma or Marin county coastline. The drive is even more enjoyable this time of year during a day with an unsettled sky hung with heavy, gray clouds that occasionally part allowing brilliant rays of sunshine to drench hills that are a shade of green so vibrant it almost seems unnatural. The winding roads, gnarled coastal trees and large formations of gray rock dotting the many cow pastures make one feel as if you’re in another time and country even though Petaluma or Novato and traffic-jammed Highway 101 are almost just over the next hill.

After the pleasant drive, I had an immediate reminder as to why Christine and I don’t travel out to the coast much on food expeditions. As I stepped out of our car I was met with the nauseating smell of seafood emanating from piles of oyster shells that had been thrown on the Hog Island’s parking area. I can’t stand the smell, it’s a rotten, decayed odor that hovers over decrepit piers or bait shacks. I admit, for all my pretensions of loving the good life, I just can’t stomach the thought of eating some of the fishy things like oysters that other people love. I am resolved to try them at some point in my life, but on that particular day with a two-hour drive to get home, and the chance of digestive stress, I was not going to experiment.

If you do like oysters, I am told by many that Hog Island has wonderful oysters grown on site in the clean waters of Tomales Bay. Our group had rented two tables in the picnic area at Hog Island with wonderful views of the bay. Christine and I had brought along a bottle of sparkling rosé wine and a still rosé Syrah that she said paired well with the oysters. For myself, I had a ham and salami sandwich. (And frankly, it was a damn good sandwich.) Hog Island’s picnic area has grills available for warming oysters although you need to bring your own charcoal or buy some at the Hog Island store. Dogs are allowed and we brought CoCo our lab but you have to keep them on a leash.

Shuck, slurp and repeat.

For most of the afternoon, our little picnic point was buffeted by cold winds coming off the water. Later in the day, however, the clouds opened up to reveal a blue sky and the sun. The sunshine and convivial atmosphere of oysters and an open fire made me feel as if I was back in Nantucket or some other glamorous destination. But then I thought, no, I’m on the beautiful California coast near Pt. Reyes. This is one of the most gorgeous areas in the country. One can find Hog Island oysters at the Ferry Building in San Francisco or at the Oxbow public market in Napa. A really fun experience though, even for an unhappy soul like myself for whom the delights of oysters are forbidden by a fickle stomach, is to visit the island first hand. I may not have enjoyed the oysters but I loved the beauty of the coast and the company of good friends.

Christine and me were joined by some friends for our first visit to the Norman Rose Tavern in Napa. The tavern is owned by Michael and Christine Gyetvan, the same couple that run Napa’s best known pizza joint, Azzuro Pizzeria & Enoteca.

When we went on a recent Thursday night, the place was packed. We put our name down on the list and ended up standing shoulder to shoulder with a crowd at the bar. After a wait of about 2 hours we finally got a small booth table near the front of the tavern. Waiting for a table wasn’t that bad as the bar service was quick efficient, although I was disappointed when the bartender couldn’t answer from memory what lagers they had on tap and instead just tossed me a menu listing the draft selections. Maybe it’s a minor quibble, but I would expect a bartender to know what lagers are on tap. It wasn’t as if I asked what beers they had on tap.

The menu is pretty simple, consisting of bar food and a few salads. I was really impressed with my sausages and mashed potatoes and Christine enjoyed her chicken sandwich although she did say it was a little reminiscent of a Chick-fil-A sandwich. The general consensus of the group was that the tavern was satisfying but a bit predictable. I did like the bar scene, decor and the place has a nice wine list. I found a bargin Rhone blend from Amador County that was delicious. I recommend a visit, but expect a wait.

Time for dinner.

It often seems that when it’s time to fire up the grill, tri tip steaks are always worth a consideration. A California classic, tri tip is one of the only cuts of steak that were developed on the West Coast. My understanding is the cut originated on the large Haciendas, or ranches that comprised California when it was part of Spain and later Mexico.

Vaqueros would roast the meat over open fires and serve it sliced alongside beans simmered with jalapenos.

When ever I visit family and friends in the midwest and East Coast most of them have never even heard of the tri tip cut. To me, and most other Californians, grilled trip tip is as ubiquitous here as slow smoked barbecue ribs are in the south.

Recently, some relatives from New York were in town for a visit and I decided to treat them to my own special tri tip. I use a dry rub and then baste the meat with a mixture of olive oil, balsamic vinegar and red wine. The rub gives the meat a spicy and savory flavor while the baste helps the meat retain its moisture even when grilled to medium well. The recipe is based on a few I found on the ‘net and one by television chef Bobby Flay. I tinker with the rub every now and then to add different nuances to the flavor. For example, for this most recent tri tip I gave the rub a dose of cinnamon. The cinnamon added a nice counterbalance taste to the spicy heat of the cayenne.

For cooking the meat, I use indirect heat for about 45 minutes to an hour. I light the front two burners on high on a propane grill and put the meat on the unlit back burner. I turn the meat about every eight to 10 minutes basting it each time. Tri tip often comes with a fatty side so the trick is to cook the meat without letting the fat burn. Also, when basting, it’s handy to have a spray bottle of water to knock down flare ups. When done cooking, it’s crucial to cover the meat with tine foil and let it rest for at least 15 minutes before carving. Some people slice tri tip and then cook the sliced steak. To me this is an abomination. Trip tip should be cooked slow and low like a roast and then served sliced.

Here’s the ingredients for a good rub for one good-sized trip ti:

Four teaspoons fresh-ground black pepper

Three teaspoons cayenne pepper

One teaspoon ground chipotle

Two tablespoons granulated garlic

Three tablespoons salt

One tablespoon garlic salt

Half teaspoon cinnamon, or one teaspoon of brown sugar.

For the baste:

1/8 cup balsamic vinegar

1/8 cup red wine

1/4 cup garlic infused olive oil.

The perfect digestif, firearms.

During the past weekend, Christine and I had some friends over at the cottage for dinner. It was a typical, breezy evening in Carneros and we started off with drinks outside on the patio. When our friends Kate and Justin showed up, I should not have been surprised that Justin had brought his .17 rifle along. The sight of a couple of jackrabbits off in the vineyards got him primed for some shooting. I had never shot a .17 before and found it similar to a .22 magnum. His .17 had a smooth lever action and a dialed in scope. I had read quite a bit about the .17′s high velocity and how that translates into accuracy and can attest it’s true. I brought out my Ruger 10/22, a classic albeit a bit boring. We had a good time shooting (and missing) at the rabbits that are really more like vermin than lil johnny cotton tail and then had fun setting up and knocking down some beer cans.

For dinner I grilled up some tri tip and asparagus and Christine made a cilantro rice dish with queso fresco. I tried something new with the tri tip this time, I slow cooked it on a Weber with mesquite wood chips. I’ve never really believed that a handful of wood chips would translate into real smoky flavor but I was wrong. I slow cooked two roasts using indirect heat and sprinkled the water soaked chips on the hot coals. I changed the chips after flipping the meat over, after about 40 minutes of cooking. After about a hour and a half of cooking, the meat had that deep, dark color of barbecue and also a lovely aroma and taste of mesquite smoke. I’m not a complete convert to slow, low and smoky — because gas is just so much easier — but I have to admit that wood chips really do bring the flavor. I’ve got an old Weber at the house in Lodi and I think my next grilling adventure will be slow cooked brisket.

After dinner we did a little more shooting, (Christine even shot a few rounds with the .17) and then played some board games. Now, Bennie had brought over several different bottles of wine from his collection and I was a bit enthusiastic in my approach to tasting as many as possible. Justin and Kate, I swear next time I’ll make it through a round of Cranium, I swear!

The penance for my overindulgence was spending the next morning picking up spent brass with a raging, raging red wine headache.

Ahhh, the good man’s weakness.

Anticipating a great meal.

Tall redwoods provide shade for the lush landscaping at Wine and Roses.

Christine and I visited the restaurant on a sumptuous weekday night. As we sat down at our table on the patio, a strong Delta breeze was cooling off a day that had reached into the upper 80s. It’s the kind of day Lodians always try to describe to Bay Area folks who think Lodi is somewhere around Bakersfield.
We started off with a glass of champagne, followed by salads with white wine. Christine’s beet salad with pecans, bleu cheese and vinaigrette was delicious and paired well with a Voss Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley.

What I love about Wine and Roses is that executive chef George Bertaina has crafted a menu that has generous portions that aren’t too heavy. This is food that tastes sophisticated but isn’t prepared with a minimalist’s approach.  I had the double cut pork chop with a vanilla apple “gastrique,” an almost glaze like sauce that accentuated the pork’s natural flavor. The pork was cooked through yet still had a delicate tenderness. Christine opted for grilled New Zealand lamb that had a robust wine reduction sauce.

Rubbed with sage and served with potatos and asparagus, the double cut pork chop.

A 02 Paso Robles Petit Sirah opened up after a little aeration.

Our efficient and pleasant waitress informed us we had to try the warm chocolate molten cake with vanilla ice cream. She said the dessert was the invention of the restaurant’s new sous chef Fabrice who baked brioche that was the best she had ever tasted in her life. Fabrice’s dessert was delicious too. Christine and me ate in about 10 minutes.